Japanese climber Nobukazu Kuriki, who has been trying to climb the first summit of Mount Everest since this year’s worst disaster of deadly quake on Thursday, returned before reaching the top due to poor weather.
Kuruki, 33, had turned back from his attempt about 700 metres below the summit, which is 8,850 metres high.
Climber Kuruki has lost nine fingers on the mountain in 2012 while he was trying to scale the world’s highest summit and he was the only climber making the dangerous attempt this year.
“I tried my best, but I judged that I would not be able to come back alive if I went any further given the strong winds and deep snow,” Kuriki wrote on his Twitter account after descending some way on Thursday.
Mountaineering experts say climbing in autumn is more dangerous than spring due to high winds and lower temperatures.
It was his first bid to climb mountain without his fingers since spending two days in a snow hole at 8.20 metres in temperatures below -20C, where he lost his fingers.
Although he has not fingertips, he can hold an ice axe with one hand and pin it with the other.
“I am grateful to everyone’s support from the bottom of my heart,” he said.
Mount Everest saw its biggest earthquake this year in April, and a second big one in May which killed approximately 9,000 people across Nepal.