Why Erzurum deserves a spot on your Türkiye travel list

You might be wondering how I ended up here as your presenter. I’m Johnny Ward, from TRT World’s travel show Where To Next.

I first made my name in the travel world by visiting every single country on Earth — all 197 of them.

Along the way, I combined that with climbing the Seven Summits, including Everest, reaching both the North and South Poles, and taking on a few long-distance challenges by land and sea.

But these days, I’m happy to slow things down. And that’s what brings me to Türkiye — a country that’s easy to travel in, but incredibly rich in history, culture, and everyday life.

Today, that journey brings me to Erzurum, a city in eastern Türkiye that many international travellers have never heard of — but perhaps they should.

When I arrived, the city was buzzing with excitement. Erzurum had been named the European Winter Sports Capital for 2025, and it has also hosted the World Children’s Winter Games.

For a city like this, those events are a big moment. Athletes, families, and spectators have arrived from across Europe and beyond, and the energy is impossible to miss.

What struck me first was the setting. Erzurum sits high on the Anatolian plateau, surrounded by snow-covered mountains that make it one of the country’s most important winter sports hubs. 

But at the same time, you’re standing among centuries-old architecture — historic mosques, old fortifications, and reminders of the many civilisations that passed through this region long before ski lifts and snowboards appeared.

It’s the kind of place that reminds you why travelling off the beaten path can be so rewarding. Sometimes the destinations you know the least about end up being the most surprising.

But travel isn’t only about landscapes or sporting events. What really defines a place is its people and how they live.

One stop that left a strong impression on me was a local women’s cooperative. In many traditional communities, initiatives like these play an important role — bringing women together to produce food and handicrafts, earn their own income, and support their families.

For me personally, it was meaningful. I grew up in a household full of strong women, so seeing women organising and supporting each other in a place like this resonates in a very personal way.

Food for the soul

And of course, any visit like this quickly turns into a meal.

There’s a universal truth when it comes to food: restaurants can be excellent, but nothing quite compares to dishes prepared by mothers, aunts, and grandmothers. 

And here, the cooperative prepares traditional home cooking that reflects the region’s culinary heritage.

There are dolma, stuffed vegetables that are known across the world but prepared slightly differently in every region of Türkiye. There are slow-cooked dishes, handmade breads, and recipes that have been passed down through generations.

And if you’re not careful, you’ll quickly discover another universal rule: once you sit down to eat in a place like this, you’re unlikely to leave the table hungry.

Later, I headed up toward Palandoken, the mountain that defines winter sports in Erzurum.

For skiing enthusiasts, this place is well known within Türkiye, but internationally it’s still relatively undiscovered. That’s surprising when you consider the quality of the slopes and the scenery.

Standing at the top of the mountain, looking out across the vast white landscape, it’s hard not to compare it with some of the famous ski resorts across Europe. Yet here, lift passes can cost a fraction of what you might pay elsewhere.

Even the hotels in the city remain remarkably affordable. For travellers willing to venture a little farther east, it’s an opportunity to experience world-class winter sports without the crowds or the price tags often associated with major Alpine destinations.

But cities reveal themselves best when you slow down and simply walk.

One of my favourite ways to get to know a place is to wander through its streets and let curiosity guide the route. Buildings tell stories — sometimes quietly, sometimes very loudly — about the history of a place.

In Erzurum, one structure stands out above the rest: the Twin Minaret Madrasa, known locally as Cifte Minareli Medrese.

Built in the 13th century during the Seljuk period, it originally served as an Islamic school. Its towering twin minarets and intricate stone carvings have become the symbol of the city itself.

When you search for Erzurum, this is almost always the image that appears first — and once you see it in person, it’s easy to understand why.

Centuries-old tradition

Nearby, another tradition continues quietly inside the historic Rustem Pasha Bazaar, an Ottoman-era market that has served traders for centuries.

Here you’ll find craftsmen working with Oltu stone, a black semi-precious stone unique to this region. It’s carved into jewelry, prayer beads, and decorative objects using techniques that have been passed down through generations.

Watching artisans work is a reminder of the dedication behind handmade crafts. The precision, the patience, the years of experience — it’s a level of skill that often goes unnoticed when we simply pick something up from a shop window.

Buying something like that isn’t just a souvenir. It’s a small connection to the people who keep these traditions alive.

And then, of course, there are the sweets.

Türkiye is famous for desserts, and Erzurum has its own local specialities. One of the most popular is kadayif dolmasi — a dessert made with shredded pastry wrapped around nuts, fried until crisp, and soaked in syrup.

Like many Turkish desserts, it’s unapologetically sweet. But paired with a strong cup of tea, it’s easy to understand why locals are so fond of it.

Even so, the classic baklava still holds its place as a favourite across the country. Every region adds its own twist — sometimes different nuts, sometimes raisins or variations in the syrup — but the essence remains the same: rich, layered pastry that has become one of Türkiye’s most recognisable culinary exports.

Back on the slopes of Palandoken, the sun is shining and the winter season is in full swing.

And today brings another interesting encounter. I’m about to meet one of Türkiye’s most notable winter athletes — Fatih Arda Ipcioglu, the country’s first Olympic ski jumper.

Ski jumping is one of the most demanding sports in the Winter Olympics, requiring extraordinary balance, technique, and courage. Seeing a Turkish athlete compete at that level has helped bring new attention to winter sports here.

And who knows — maybe he can even give me a few tips before I attempt another run on the slopes myself.