Golden Horn's allure: Rowing clubs, coffee festivals, and art

ISTANBUL, Türkiye – As the sun gracefully descended below the horizon on a recent Thursday evening, casting a golden glow upon the tranquil waters of the Golden Horn, Istanbul came alive with its rich heritage and contemporary vibrancy.

Rowers were moving in perfect synchrony, their paddles plunging into and rising from the gentle waves. Multiple caiques navigated the iconic waterway, their lights shimmering like fireflies, ensuring their visibility amidst the passing ferries and boats.

This picturesque scene framed Istanbul’s timeless panorama: the grandeur of Suleymaniye, Fatih and Eyup on one side, and the majestic Galata Tower on the other. Minarets and graveyards stood in harmony alongside centuries-old cypress trees and the colourful historical houses of Balat.

This enchanting September evening on a caique felt like a voyage through time, as if we had stepped into a bygone era when Ottomans revelled in the Golden Horn, rowing between the shores of Eminonu and Galata.

It was akin to immersing ourselves in the pages of historical Turkish mystery novels like Ihsan Oktay Anar's "The Atlas of Misty Continents" or Orhan Pamuk's "My Name is Red," both set in 16th century Istanbul, with the Golden Horn as their heart.

During the reign of Ottoman sultan Ahmed the Third in 1703 and until the revolt led by Patrona Halil in 1730, the Golden Horn, known as Halic by locals, was a bustling hub that reflected the ceremonious aura of the Tulip Era, the time when the Ottoman Empire spent lavishly on the development of art and grand architecture.

"The social life along the waterways of the imperial capital was remarkably sophisticated," says art historian Yasin Saygili, a seasoned guide specialising in thematic cultural tours in Istanbul.

The Golden Horn of today continues to retain the vibrancy of the imperial time gone by. It still hosts dozens of rowing clubs, boat trips, colourful coffee festivals, and contemporary art exhibitions along its shores.

Daily life along the Ottoman shores

In her book "Constantinople: The City of Sultans," American author Clara Erskine Clement captured the daily life of Istanbulites along the shores in the 18th century. She described the scene, likening people on the caiques to swans gliding over the water:

"The Golden Horn and the Sweet Waters were literally covered with caiques filled with women and children on their way to the charming valleys, where they are wont to congregate on the afternoon of their Sunday. The caiques were so frail and showed so little above the water that to one standing above and looking down on them, their passengers had the appearance of sitting on the water and gliding over it as swans might do."

According to Saygili, the boat trips that Ottomans once cherished as a social activity in the city with compelling detail.

"Some of these excursions were specifically scheduled to coincide with full moons," he says, "and they featured live musicians on board the caique."

During these outings, attendees could tour the city along the scenic shoreline while enjoying melodies played by saz musicians.

In 2015, the Istanbul Municipality introduced a service offering 20 nostalgic caiques meticulously designed to evoke the spirit of those used by Ottomans in the 17th and 18th centuries along the Golden Horn. Since then, this activity has gained immense popularity among those seeking to relive the historical essence of the city.

Saygili has also been organising guided tours that offer participants the opportunity to board these boats while receiving insightful explanations about the rich history of these Ottoman-era boat trips.

Beyond leisure activities, recent years have seen a surge in watersports. Numerous rowing clubs have made the Horn's shores their home. The first-ever rowing race in Halic, held just two years ago, saw the participation of 68 diverse teams. Due to its overwhelming success in 2022, this event has transformed into an internationally recognised competition known as the Golden Horn Rowing Cup.

Celebrations and Festivities

In the days of the Ottoman Empire, the Golden Horn's shores were a gathering place not only for daily leisure but also for joyous celebrations and festivities.

In her book, Clement vividly describes how Ottomans celebrated their religious holiday, known as Bayram, marking the end of Ramadan with a grand procession across the Golden Horn:

"....Despite the early hour, the Golden Horn, and the large basin which expands at its entrance, presented a most animated scene. All the vessels were adorned with multicoloured flags and streamers, from boom to truck. A multitude of gilded boats, lavishly decorated with exquisite carpets or tapestries and manned by robust oarsmen, glided gracefully across the rose-tinted waters. These boats, carrying pashas, viziers, beys, and other dignitaries, all set their course towards Serai Bournon."

Today, while Bayrams are typically observed with modest family gatherings, the Golden Horn continues to be a vibrant hub for various celebrations, including coffee festivals and contemporary art exhibitions.

The ninth edition of the annual Istanbul Coffee Festival was recently held from September 14 to 17 at Tersane Istanbul,a beautifully renovated 15th-century Ottoman-era shipyard along the Golden Horn.

The event brought together Istanbul's premier coffee brands, bean coffee producers, and coffee machine manufacturers along the shoreline. Coffee enthusiasts had the opportunity to savour coffee delicacies and specially crafted products while taking in the mesmerising view of the historical peninsula.

Moreover, this year's Contemporary Istanbul art fair is set to take place from September 27 to October 1 in the Golden Horn. Since 2021, this renowned event has chosen Tersane Istanbul, as its main venue for its annual gathering every September. This event serves as a significant connection point for artists, galleries, and collectors from around the world.

This iconic waterway, steeped in history, thrives as a captivating fusion of culture and tradition, bridging the past and the present. It invites explorers and enthusiasts to savour Istanbul's rich history and contemporary allure, creating an essential destination for those seeking an authentic Turkish experience.